Lifestyle

Istanbul Like a Local: Kadıköy & Moda

We take the ferry across to Kadıköy — for many Istanbulites this is the real Istanbul. The fish market, the pickle shops that have stayed in the same family for four generations, the Çiya kitchen that turned regional Anatolian cooking into a movement, and the long walk down through Moda to the sea. We taste as we go — a wedge of borek, a glass of pickle juice, a baked simit straight from the oven.